Category: dyeing reports

  • Dye Workshop May 2023

    What a wonderful day! The weather was kind, the venue perfect for our needs, and the workshop both fun and inspiring! This was our first time at Glachbeg Croft, where we were made very welcome. We set up for the dyeing in an open sided barn – outside, but undercover, and with an earth floor. We also had use of a modern building which is used for workshops etc, where we could sit down for tea or coffee and eat our lunch.

    Susan started us off with shibori. We tore up old cotton sheets so that everyone had two or three pieces of cloth to dye. Then Susan showed us how to fold and tie the material tightly to exclude dye from some areas – she had brought small blocks of wood, buttons and pegs to include to make different patterns. Once the fabric parcels were tightly tied, dye was applied liberally to the exposed parts, then after a quick whizz in the microwave, they were left to set. We were using Procion fibre reactive dyes, with sodium carbonate as fixative for cotton and other cellulose fibres – no heat is needed to fix the dye, but a minute in the microwave helps to get the process started. Those who had used anything which included metal to make their patterns couldn’t microwave, but the results were just as good when the pieces were unwrapped later. After everyone had tied up a couple of pieces, we had a tea break and Susan introduced the idea of stitching then drawing up the stitches tightly, as another way of excluding dye from some areas of the fabric.

    Once dye had been applied to the stitched samples, Susan introduced something new to everyone: Jacquard Solarfast dyes. These were applied to the fabric in the darkest part of the barn, then objects (leaves, coins, etc) were arranged on top, and the pieces of fabric then set out in the sun. We left them while we had lunch, then carried them into the back of the barn again and quickly removed the leaves etc and washed the fabric as thoroughly as possible to remove any residual dye. This is important as any dye remaining will react with the light and the pattern will be lost. The initially pale colour had darkened where the fabric was exposed to the sun, but remained pale where it had been covered, leaving an imprint of whatever had been laid on top.

    By this time everyone was curious to see the outcome of the shibori experiments, so these were unwrapped and admired. Some had worked better than others, but all were attractive. Those who hadn’t used the stitching technique before mostly found that their stitching hadn’t been pulled tight enough – a learning point for next time. The fibre reactive dyes can take 24 to 48 hours to fully set, so participants were advised not to rinse their work till the following day at least.

    In the afternoon Susan introduced the use of acid dyes on wool. She gave everyone pre-soaked tops in white, grey, brown and black, and a little piece of fleece. These were to be dyed with the same solid colour to show how the end results varied. She then introduced rainbow dying – playtime! Lay a length of pre-soaked tops on clingfilm, add splashes of different colour dyes at intervals, squish to blend where the colours meet, roll in the clingfilm, closing the ends, and microwave! The wool needs to be pre-soaked so that it takes up the dye effectively, but should be squeezed out before applying the dye. The fixative for wool is lemon juice or vinegar, and the dyes need to be heat fixed, so the microwaves worked hard for the rest of the day.

    At the end of the day everyone had a range of samples, and a lot of ideas for more experiments. Thank you, Susan for a great day!

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  • Jaine Mahon, Skye Silks

    On 11th February twenty plus Guild members met by zoom to hear Jaine Mahon’s inspirational talk about her journey as a spinner, weaver and dyer. Like many of us she learned to knit and sew as a child – so young she can’t remember learning to knit! After school she did a computing course at university, visited a craft centre on a day off, and was so fascinated she immediately booked a day’s spinning course. This involved a 20 mile cycle ride there and back! Her teacher put her in touch with the Association of Guilds of WSD, and in the early 1980s when she started work she joined two local Guilds (Wiltshire and Worcestershire). Guild meetings were attended by 80-100 members. Many of the members were very skilled older ladies, who had learned from their grandmothers, and who spun, wove and made their own clothes and home textiles. Technically very competent, but all in natural colours, so rather dull. However, there were also hippies, who went wild with colour and texture. With influence from both sides Jaine learned all the rules and how to break them.

    From spinning, Jaine moved on to explore natural and chemical dyes, then weaving, and loved it. She attended workshops and courses – retreats arranged by the Guilds and Convergence in Vancouver. The latter she described as Disneyland plus Christmas plus Alice in Wonderland! Her tutors have included Mabel Ross, Sue Hiley Harris, Peter Collingwood, Eileen Chadwick, Jenny Balfour Paul, Peter Teal, Jaqui Carey.

    In 1991 she enrolled on the Bradford Diploma in Handloom Weaving, which at that time also included the basics of spinning and dyeing. She showed us some of her samples woven on the course: colour and weave; inkle; kumihimo; oiled wool – 8 samples the same, fulled differently; double weave using linen; rugs with a pure wool weft; collapse fabrics; deflected double weave. She also showed us her dye sample book.

    And so to silk – natural fibre, takes dye naturally, feels nice, drapes well. Having worked with a variety of fibres, spinning techniques, dyes and weave structures, Jaine found when she was setting up her business in Skye that she needed to specialise. She investigated and found that there were not many people weaving in the area, and that it was mostly wool, so she decided to focus on silk. She has done bespoke designs for wedding dresses, and did initially include garments in her studio, but finds that scarves sell best. Each of her scarves in unique. She does her own dyeing, and though several scarves are woven on one warp, the wefts are different. Warps and or wefts may be hand painted; weave structures vary; supplementary warps may be used. The thread she uses is either 30/2s (sett at 30 epi) or 60/2s (sett at 60-80 epi). A 30 metre warp with 1008 threads takes around 18 hours to set up, and will make 12 scarves. Weaving takes about 8 hours per scarf. She has recently bought a huge 4 metre warping mill, which will enable her to wind a 100 metre warp, enough for 40 scarves.

    Hand woven scarves and stoles are expensive, so Jaine also buys undyed silk scarves and dyes them to increase her range with less expensive items. She also uses the thrums to make kumihimo cords for earrings, necklaces and glasses cords, makes earrings from cocoons, and roses from carrier rods. We were all full of admiration for the colour and range of items in Jaine’s studio, and the amount of sheer hard work which goes into producing it.

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  • October 2021 Trisha Gow – Fungi Dyeing

    Trisha Gow is a tapestry weaver, who discovered fungi dyeing when she attended the Battleby Gathering in the 1980s. She is a member of the Scottish Fungi Dye Group, and has attended the International Fungi and Fibre Symposium several times. Apparently, there is no historical record of the use of fungi dyes – research began in the 20th century. Unlike other natural dyes fungi dyes are not available commercially, and are not normally grown as garden plants so learning to identify dye producing fungi in the wild is important. Trisha suggested getting a mycologist to lead a fungus foray. Fungi dyeing is generally ecologically sound, so long as only the mature fruiting body is collected and only a few taken from each site – once the cap is fully opened it will have shed most of its spores.

    The colours obtained from fungi include a range of reds, yellows, greens and purple, but no blue. Trisha advocates using an alum mordant then using an after bath to modify – ammonia and soda to brighten, iron to sadden. If fungi are not to be used immediately, they can be spread out to dry on absorbent paper – cold water soak to reconstitute before use. To dye, bring up to just below boiling point (you can use a pan of water, slow cooker, microwave, solar dyeing – but nothing you are going to use for cooking food!). The PH of the water should be around 9. Large bracket fungi should be broken up. The caps and stalks of some fungi give different shades, so try them separately the first time. Don’t throw the fungi away after one dye session, they may have more dye to give, and they can be dried to use again. Keeping records is important – quantities used etc.

    Trisha went on to show us some of her samples: a tapestry woven from fungi dyed wool, a silk scarf, a spindle bag; and also some of her record books. Guild members who had been on the fungus foray with Trisha then gave feedback on the results from the fungi samples they had been given.

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    In the afternoon the dye discussion continued with samples of dyed skeins and fibre; plus some lovely samples of felting.

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  • August 2021 All About Cotton

    I wasn’t able to attend this meeting, so the write up is thanks to Liz. I clearly missed a very interesting meeting which looked at spinning, weaving and dyeing cotton, with contributions from several of our members. It’s attached here as a document:
    Cotton spinning

  • Dyeing Workshop May 2021

    Normally in a dye workshop the person leading explains the process, shows samples and then participants are able to have a go. First measuring carefully, following rules, then, when they feel confident with the process, letting loose their imagination and having fun. This tine, because we couldn’t meet up, we focussed on explaining and hoped to give enough information to encourage people to try.

    Hilma talked about solar dying, showing how this kind of dyeing requires minimal equipment but produces good colours, even in cool spring weather. The process is simple: place the dyestuff in a glass jar, add alum for plant material, citric acid or vinegar for commercial dyes, put in your fleece or yarn, top up with warm water, place in sunlight and leave for a few weeks. Hilma demonstrated, taking a kilner jar and adding wallflowers (picked yesterday and stored in a paper bag), alum, fleece and warm water. By the end of the morning some colour was already showing. Over the last month Hilma had dyed with dried and fresh daffodil heads, red and white onion skins, dried marigold heads, safflower exhaust, logwood exhaust, wallflower, red cabbage and white crottle, and food colour dyes. She had also layered a skein: starting with buckthorn bark / yarn / madder / yarn / liquid indigo / yarn. She recommended: “Wild Dyer” by Abigail Booth, and “Wild colour” by Jenny Dean. The latter includes instructions for making a solar oven. You can download Hilma’s solar dyeing notes

    Isobel has sent a list articles on solar dyeing in Spin Off and The Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers:
    Spin Off Summer 05 “Sun kissed dyeing” and making equipment
    Journal 165 March 1993: For Beginners: Solar Dyeing
    Journal 188 December 1998: Cool Dyeing – The natural Way
    Journal 234 Summer 2010: Solar Dyeing with natural dyes. Helen Melvin
    Journal 245 Spring 2013: Slow colour, community and well-being

    Stephanie talked about using Procion MX dyes, and had made short videos of the process. You can download her workshop notes. Sophie had used the same dyes and showed her colour samples, demonstrating the range of repeatable colours that are possible. There was lively discussion, with people recommending different kinds of dyes and talking about their experiences of solar dyeing. Christine had immersed pieces of copper pipe in a vinegar solution and got a lovely blue liquid.
    Pictures below – the final one is Stephanie’s samples, the rest are Hilma’s.
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    The discussion continued in the afternoon craft and chat session, with people talking about dyeing with avocado and pomegranate skins. Mary showed silk and wool she had dyed with avocado. Sarah had made a felted cushion from fleece dyed with Gaywool Dyes. Ruth was weaving bookmarks on her new 16-shaft computerised loom to try it out – the computer lifts the shafts according to the pattern; the actual weaving is still by hand. Hilma and Norah showed the mini tapestries they had completed. Terry was spinning on her dealgan spindle, and Susan had been using her weaving to make pond “baskets”. Sheila finished plying a skein of beautiful silk which she plans to weave into her challenge scarf. Pictures below.
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  • Playing with Colour

    Stephanie Hoyle’s Dyeing Workshop was preceded with clear notes in March’s Guild Newsletter explaining the uses of Procion MX Dyes and which fibres they were suitable for. Recipes were given so we could prepare our fibres ahead of the day. I found this extremely useful as it enabled me to hank up skeins, weigh out tops and label them beforehand then soak them all, starting at home.

    When I arrived at Strathpeffer Community Centre the room was already laid out with three “work stations” each equipped with plastic covers for the tables, a microwave oven, a range of dyes, and containers for mixing and fixing dyes. Stephanie gave us an introductory talk, covering Health and Safety, preparing yarns, fibre etc. for dyeing, applying dye and fixing dyes then finishing the process. What was even better she gave us written notes, especially useful for people like me who can only take in a little at a time or who are hoping to do more dyeing later.

    After this short talk, we were all off back to our workstations and the dyes. What fun it was to try and match colours; mixing the primary colours to give subtle and sometimes surprising shades, or just using the primary colours directly onto the fibre then letting them blend into each other. I tried three different methods: immersing fibre in the dye completely; space dyeing tops and injecting dye into a centre-pull ball of yarn. All my fibres were wool, others members tried dyeing cotton, other plant fibres and fabric.

    The day passed all too quickly. I came away with all my 500gms of tops and yarns dyed and ready to rinse out once they had fully cooled. You can see the results in the pictures [the last three in the gallery below]. My next excitement will be when I spin up the tops and knit up the yarns.

    Thank you Stephanie for an interesting, informative and productive day.

    Mary Paren

    Here are some photos from the March 2019 Procion MX dye workshop. Since the workshop I’ve dyed some more cotton and got much deeper colours. I left it in the dye for 40 hours plus. I also left it in the fixative solution, adding the dye to that. Not sure which was responsible for the deeper colours, so more experimenting needed. There was still colour left in the water, so perhaps it needed to be left even longer. These are my workshop notes which you can download.
    Stephanie Hoyle

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